Building a full-size arcade cabinet is a serious woodworking project, but the result is a purpose-built machine that can deliver years of classic gaming. This guide covers the complete build: planning the MDF panels, assembling the shell, making the control deck, mounting a 32-inch monitor, painting the cabinet and installing the controls.
The dimensions shown in the plans were developed around a 32-inch widescreen monitor and 16mm MDF. Measure your own screen, controls and computer before cutting anything. If you would prefer a ready-made option, compare the project with Retrocade’s upright arcade machines or browse DIY arcade kits.
Before you start
This is an expert-level project involving large sheet material, power tools, dust and powered equipment. Wear eye, hearing and respiratory protection, support every panel before cutting, and follow each tool manufacturer’s instructions. Have a licensed electrician handle any fixed electrical work. Keep mains wiring isolated from low-voltage controls and provide ventilation around the monitor and computer.
Important measurement note: the cabinet base is 536mm deep, the upper hood extends to 635mm, and the 494mm measurement refers to an internal lower panel. Confirm the full side profile from the plan before transferring it to MDF.
Materials
- Five 2400 × 1200 × 16mm MDF sheets
- One 2400mm length of 40 × 18mm dressed timber
- PVA wood glue, timber filler and assorted sandpaper
- Primer and black water-based enamel topcoat
- Masking tape
- Four 25 × 20 × 1.6mm butt hinges and a magnetic cabinet catch
- Four 75mm swivel castors
- Sixteen M6 × 25mm bolts with washers and nuts
- 4G × 16mm and 8G × 50mm timber screws
- Four bendable mending plates for monitor retainers
- 900 × 600 × 5mm clear acrylic and clear silicone
- Optional 100mm speaker grilles, speakers, hook-and-loop tape and LED marquee light
- Monitor, computer or game system, arcade controls and a suitable power board
Tools
- Circular saw and jigsaw
- Drill/driver, countersink bit, 6mm bit and 25mm spade bit
- Router with a 5mm round-over bit
- Sander, paint roller, tray and brush
- 900mm sash clamps
- 100mm hole saw
- Adjustable spanner, carpenter’s square and tape measure
- Safety glasses, hearing protection and a suitable dust mask or respirator
Step 1: Mark every cabinet panel
Lay the MDF sheets flat and transfer the cutting plan carefully. Mark the two mirrored side profiles first, followed by the base, back, front, control deck, monitor frame, hood and marquee pieces. Use a long straightedge for diagonals and verify each intersection twice. Label every segment before cutting so similar pieces are not mixed up.
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Step 2: Cut the cabinet components
Clamp each sheet securely and make the long square cuts with a circular saw. Cut the square-edged base and side components before setting up the angled cuts required for the front fascia and hood. A straightedge guide will improve accuracy. Finish internal openings and tighter curves with a jigsaw.
2
2
2
Step 3: Round the exposed side edges
Clamp the side panels to a stable bench and use a router with a small round-over bit on the edges that will remain visible. Keep the router base flat and make controlled passes. Do not round the mating edges where another panel must sit flush.
3
3
Step 4: Assemble the main cabinet shell
Mark pilot holes about 100mm apart and approximately 8mm in from the side-panel edges. Countersink the holes so the screw heads finish below the surface. Apply PVA glue to the mating edges, clamp the back and base between the sides, check for square, then secure them with 50mm timber screws. Continue with the lower front panels. Fill the countersunk holes while the glue cures.
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
Step 5: Build the monitor and marquee hood
Assemble the upper panels as a separate framed section, using the same glue, pilot-hole and countersunk-screw method. This area supports the monitor surround, speakers and illuminated marquee, so check its angles against the side profile before tightening everything.
5
5
5
Step 6: Make the rear access door
Mark a 550 × 700mm opening in the lower rear panel with gently rounded corners. Drill a starter hole and cut the opening with a jigsaw; keep the cut-out because it becomes the door. Sand both edges, attach four small hinges with 16mm screws and install the magnetic catch. Add a 25mm finger hole opposite the hinges. Leave enough clearance for the door to swing without binding.
6
6
6
6
6
6
Step 7: Fit the castors
Lay the cabinet safely on its side and position one swivel castor near each base corner. Drill 6mm mounting holes, then install the castors with M6 bolts, washers and locknuts. Tighten them evenly and confirm the wheels rotate freely before standing the cabinet upright.
7
Step 8: Drill the control deck
Choose a joystick and button layout that suits the games and the users’ hand spacing. Tape a full-size control template to the deck, mark every centre point and drill the button holes with a 25mm spade bit. Use a backing board to reduce breakout. Drill the correct mounting holes for the joysticks and test-fit all controls before paint.
8
8
8
8
8
Step 9: Create the monitor frame
Place the monitor face-down on a clean padded surface and trace its outer edge onto the MDF frame blank. Mark a second line about 10mm inside the screen outline; this smaller opening retains the display while exposing the active picture area. Cut and sand the opening, then mount the frame at a comfortable rearward viewing angle. Secure it through the cabinet sides and from beneath the control deck where accessible.
9
9
9
Step 10: Prepare and paint the cabinet
Fill screw holes and imperfections, sand the complete cabinet and remove all dust. Apply two coats of MDF-compatible primer, sanding lightly between coats. Finish with two coats of durable water-based enamel. Allow each coat to cure fully before handling or installing electronics.
10
10
10
10
10
Step 11: Make the monitor retaining brackets
Cut four 150mm sections of bendable mending plate. Form each into a shallow S by bending at approximately 50mm and 100mm, then adjust the profile to suit the monitor casing. Fix the lower pair to the monitor frame and test-fit the display. Reserve the upper pair until final installation. The brackets should restrain the casing without pressing on the LCD panel.
11
11
11
11
Step 12: Install the illuminated marquee
Cut the acrylic slightly oversize for the marquee opening and sand it to a neat fit. Secure it with a thin bead of clear silicone. Mount an LED batten behind the panel in accordance with its instructions, then attach the printed marquee artwork to the rear of the acrylic. Check that the light is even and that wiring cannot touch sharp edges.
12
12
12
Step 13: Add speakers if required
If the monitor does not provide suitable audio, mark two 100mm speaker openings beneath the marquee. Cut them with a hole saw, install the grilles and secure the speakers behind them with screws or heavy-duty hook-and-loop straps. Keep the speaker magnets and wiring clear of the monitor and moving access door.
13
13
Step 14: Install and wire the arcade controls
Fit the joysticks, action buttons, start buttons and any pause or service controls. Follow the encoder manufacturer’s wiring diagram, maintain consistent ground daisy-chains and label each connection. Test every input on the computer before closing the deck. An optional coin door can be added to the lower front panel if there is adequate internal clearance. Retrocade’s arcade parts range can help with replacement controls and hardware.
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
Step 15: Mount the monitor and complete the system
Place the monitor into the finished frame and secure the top using the remaining brackets. Only the outer casing should contact the retaining frame; never clamp the display surface. Install the computer or game hardware, connect the controls, speakers and display, and secure every cable away from fans and sharp MDF edges. Provide airflow and strain relief, then connect the equipment through an appropriately rated power board.
Run a complete test with the rear door open. Confirm video, sound, all player controls, cooling and safe cable routing. Once everything is stable, close the access panel, fit the marquee and enjoy the finished full-size arcade cabinet.
15
15
15
Final setup tips
- Measure your actual monitor and controls before cutting; nominal screen sizes do not give the casing dimensions.
- Seal every MDF edge during priming because exposed edges absorb paint quickly.
- Keep mains power components enclosed and separated from control wiring.
- Provide service access to the computer, power board, monitor connections and control encoder.
- Use the castors for positioning, but add locking wheels or levelling feet if the cabinet can move during play.
If a full scratch build is more than you need, Retrocade’s arcade machine buying guide explains the main cabinet formats and what to check before choosing a machine.
Leave a Reply